Fes Travel Guide

The world's oldest living medieval city. Fes el-Bali is a UNESCO masterpiece — 9,000 alleyways, the world's oldest university, and leather tanneries that haven't changed in 1,000 years.

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9,000
Alleyways in the medina
859 AD
University al-Qarawiyyin founded
UNESCO
World Heritage Site since 1981
3 Days
Recommended stay

Morocco's Spiritual & Intellectual Capital

Fes is unlike anywhere else on earth. While Marrakech dazzles tourists, Fes remains stubbornly, magnificently itself — a living, breathing medieval city where 1,000-year-old traditions carry on unchanged. Donkeys outnumber cars, leather tanners dye hides the same way their ancestors did, and the world's oldest continuously-operating university still holds classes.

The medina, Fes el-Bali, is the world's largest car-free urban area. Get lost here — because getting lost is the point. Every wrong turn leads to a hidden madrasa, a fragrant spice souk, or a glimpse of daily Moroccan life that no tourist trail could manufacture.

This is the Morocco that travel writers run out of superlatives to describe. Plan at least 3 days.

Best: Mar–May & Sep–Nov Airport: FEZ (35 min) Train from Marrakech: 8h Arabic & French Very conservative dress code
Fes medina aerial view
Timing Your Trip

When to Visit Fes

Best

Spring
Mar – May

The ideal visit window — 18–24°C, the medina smells of orange blossom, and the tanneries are at full colour. Manageable crowds. Best month: April.

Avoid

Summer
Jun – Aug

Very hot (35–42°C). The tanneries intensify in smell. Crowds peak. Visit early morning if you must come in summer.

Best

Autumn
Sep – Nov

Warm and golden (22–30°C in September, cooling by November). Post-summer quiet. Fes el-Bali completely changes character.

Good

Winter
Dec – Feb

Cool (8–14°C), possible rain. The medina takes on a moody atmospheric quality in winter mist. Lowest prices, fewer tourists.

Complete Insider Guide

4 Perfect Days in Fes — Tanneries, Riads & Hidden Medina

PDF guide · 23 pages · Instant download · 30-day money-back

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Top 10 Things to Do in Fes

From the hypnotic tanneries to ancient madrasas — the best of Fes

Chouara Tanneries traditional leather dye pits Fes medina
1

Chouara Tanneries

The most iconic image of Fes — ancient leather dyeing pits that have worked since the 11th century. Visit tannery-view terraces in nearby leather shops for the best vantage point.

Daily, dawn–dusk Free (via shop terrace) Fes el-Bali
Bou Inania Madrasa
2

Bou Inania Madrasa

The finest example of Marinid-era architecture in Morocco. Intricate zellige tilework, carved cedar wood and breathtaking stucco plasterwork. One of the only madrasas non-Muslims can enter freely.

Daily 8am–6pm 20 MAD Fes el-Bali
Al-Qarawiyyin University
3

Al-Qarawiyyin University

Founded in 859 AD — the world's oldest continuously operating educational institution, according to UNESCO and the Guinness World Records. Non-Muslims cannot enter the mosque but can view the courtyard.

Exterior always Free Heart of medina
Mellah Jewish Quarter
4

Fes el-Jdid & the Mellah

The "new city" (built in 1276!) houses the Royal Palace with its stunning golden brass doors, and the historic Jewish quarter (Mellah) with its distinctive architecture and wrought-iron balconies.

Always accessible Free Fes el-Jdid
Merenid Tombs panoramic view Fes
5

Merenid Tombs & City View

Hike or take a taxi to these 14th-century ruined tombs on the hill above Fes for the most spectacular panorama of the medina. Come at sunset for breathtaking golden hour shots.

Always open Free Borj Nord hill
Attarine Madrasa carved cedar wood Fes
6

Attarine Madrasa

Adjacent to the Qarawiyyin mosque, this 14th-century madrasa is a jewel of Islamic architecture. Named after the spice sellers (attarine) who traded nearby. The central courtyard is extraordinary.

Sat–Thu 9am–5pm 10 MAD Near Qarawiyyin
Medina souks alley craft quarters Fes
7

Medina Souks & Craft Quarters

Fes souks are organized by trade — the spice quarter, brass workers, weavers, dyers. Follow your nose through the spice souk, watch artisans at work, and discover the city's legendary craft traditions.

Daily 9am–8pm Free to browse Fes el-Bali
Jardin Jnan Sbil garden alley Fes Morocco
8

Jardin Jnan Sbil

A magnificent 19th-century royal garden — shaded tree-lined alleys, fountains and a large lake just outside Bab Bou Jeloud. The perfect escape from the medina's intensity. Free entry, always open. Fes's most beautiful green space.

Daily, sunrise–sunset Free Next to Bab Bou Jeloud
Bab Bou Jeloud Blue Gate Fes medina
9

Bab Bou Jeloud (Blue Gate)

The iconic entry gate to Fes el-Bali — blue on the outside (for Fes), green on the inside (for Islam). Built in 1913, it's the perfect backdrop for photos and the starting point for medina exploration.

Always accessible Free Medina entrance
Fassi cooking class spices Fes
10

Fassi Cooking Class

Fes cuisine is considered the most refined in Morocco. A cooking class with a local family — visiting the spice market, then cooking bastilla, tagine and pastilla — is the most immersive experience available.

Morning sessions From 350 MAD Various riads

4 Perfect Days in Fes — $12.99

Everything this page can't fit: hidden hammams, the best riad breakfast spots, our custom medina walking routes, haggling scripts for the souks, restaurant reviews with GPS pins, plus a full 4-day itinerary.

  • Custom medina walking maps (PDF)
  • 4-day Fes itinerary
  • 50+ restaurant reviews
  • Hidden gems only locals know
  • Haggling guide for the souks
  • Day trip routes to Volubilis & Meknes
  • Instant digital download
Download Now — $12.99

Where to Stay in Fes

Choose your neighbourhood — each has a different personality

Fes el-Bali (Old Medina)

The real Fes experience — riad hotels in the heart of the medina. No cars, total immersion. Essential for first-timers. Slightly harder to navigate with luggage.

Budget: $50–$250/night

Ville Nouvelle

Modern Fes, built by the French. Wider streets, international hotels, cafes and restaurants. Best for comfort-seekers who want easy taxis to the medina.

Budget: $40–$150/night

Route de Sefrou (Outskirts)

Boutique hotels and guesthouses with pool and garden — great for a luxurious base with easy access to Fes. Perfect for families or longer stays.

Budget: $80–$300/night

Find Hotels in Fes

Compare riads, medina hotels and boutique guesthouses

Best Restaurants in Fes

Fassi cuisine is Morocco's most refined — don't leave without eating well

1

Restaurant Nur

The best tasting menu in Fes — refined takes on Moroccan classics in an intimate riad setting. Chef Najat Kaanache has been called Morocco's best chef.

Fine Dining Tasting Menu $$$$
2

The Ruined Garden

Beautiful open-air riad restaurant serving traditional Moroccan dishes. The setting alone — cascading plants, zellige tiles, birdsong — is worth the visit.

Moroccan Riad Setting $$$
3

Café Clock

A Fes institution beloved by locals and travelers alike. Famous for the camel burger, but also serves excellent traditional dishes. Great for solo travelers.

Café International $$
4

Medina Street Food

Don't overlook the medina's street food — kefta sandwiches, bissara (fava bean soup), sfenj (doughnuts) and msemen (flatbread). Head to Place Seffarine for breakfast.

Street Food Local $
5

Dar Hatim

Hidden inside a 200-year-old riad, Dar Hatim serves family-style traditional Fassi meals. Bastilla, pigeon pie and slow-cooked lamb tagine. Book in advance.

Traditional Family Style $$
6

La Maison Bleue Restaurant

Set in a historic palace near the Blue Gate, La Maison Bleue offers a theatrical dining experience with live Andalusian music and a lavish Moroccan feast.

Palace Dining Live Music $$$$

Experiences & Tours in Fes

Book these through our trusted partners — vetted guides, instant confirmation

Medina tour

Guided Medina Walking Tour

3-hour expert-led tour of Fes el-Bali — tanneries, madrasas, souks and hidden gems. Small groups only.

From $25 Book Now
Cooking class

Fassi Cooking Class

Spice market visit then a hands-on bastilla, tagine and harira cooking class in a family home. Includes lunch.

From $45 Book Now
Volubilis day trip historic ruins

Volubilis & Meknes Day Trip

Visit the best-preserved Roman ruins in Africa (Volubilis) then explore the imperial city of Meknes. Full-day tour.

From $55 Book Now

Day Trips from Fes

Fes sits in a prime location for exploring northern Morocco

Volubilis

North Africa's finest Roman ruins. 1.5 hrs by car. Combine with Meknes for a full day.

1.5 hrs away

Meknes

Morocco's least-touristy imperial city — enormous walls, grand gates and excellent cuisine.

1 hour away

Chefchaouen

The Blue City — magical mountain town 3 hours away. Perfect 2-day extension.

3 hours away

Middle Atlas

Ifrane (Morocco's Switzerland) and cedar forests with wild Barbary macaques.

1–2 hours away

Northern Morocco Road Trip — Tangier → Chefchaouen → Fes full route guide →

Insider Tips for Fes

What the guidebooks don't tell you

Download offline maps

Maps.me with the Fes medina download is essential — even locals get lost. Don't rely on Google Maps, which has poor coverage of Fes el-Bali's alleyways.

Best time at the tanneries

Go to Chouara Tanneries between 9–11am when the dyers are most active and light is best. Many shops offer free terrace access — they'll invite you in, buy something if you can.

Dress very modestly

Fes is more conservative than Marrakech. Women should cover shoulders and knees throughout the medina. A scarf is essential near mosques and madrasas.

Hire a licensed guide for Day 1

The medina will defeat you without context. Hire an official guide (through your riad or the tourist office near the Blue Gate) for your first day, then explore freely after.

Carry fresh mint

The tanneries have a powerful smell — shop owners will offer you mint to hold under your nose. Buy a bunch from any stall beforehand. It genuinely helps.

Drink at the public fountains

Fes has beautiful old public water fountains (sebils) throughout the medina — these are fine to drink from. Carry a refillable bottle to save on plastic.

Ramadan transforms Fes

During Ramadan, Fes becomes magical at night — the medina fills with food stalls after iftar, music drifts from mosques, and families gather in the streets. Plan around it, not away from it.

Never accept the first price

Bargaining is expected everywhere in the souks. Start at 30–40% of the asking price and work up. Walk away slowly — you'll often be called back with a better deal. Smile throughout.

Ask before you photograph

Unlike some tourist medinas, Fes locals genuinely dislike being photographed without permission — especially women and craftsmen at work. Always ask (a nod and pointing to your camera works). Respect a refusal.

Getting to Fes

How to reach Morocco's most ancient city

By Air

Fes-Saïs Airport (FEZ) has direct flights from London, Paris, Brussels, Amsterdam and more. Ryanair, easyJet and Royal Air Maroc all serve Fes. Taxi to medina: ~80 MAD.

By Train

ONCF trains connect Fes to Casablanca (4h), Rabat (3h) and Marrakech (via Casablanca, 8h). The train station is in Ville Nouvelle — taxis to medina take 10 min.

By Bus

CTM and Supratours buses connect Fes to Marrakech (8h), Chefchaouen (3.5h), Casablanca (5h). Comfortable, air-conditioned and affordable. Book ahead in peak season.

Heading to Marrakech? Every Fes → Marrakech option compared — train, bus, scenic road trip →

Food Scene

What to Eat in Fes

Fes is Morocco's culinary capital — ancient city techniques, original Andalusian recipes and the country's most complex spice tradition all concentrated in the world's largest car-free medieval city.

Pastilla de Fes

The original bastilla — layers of flaky warqa pastry, braised pigeon, egg and almonds, scented with cinnamon and topped with powdered sugar. It originated in Fes during the Andalusian influx. Seek it at Riad Rcif or the medina restaurants near Bab Guissa.

Couscous on Friday

In Fes, couscous is a Friday ritual — families gather for the traditional midday meal. The Fassi version is richer than elsewhere, topped with seven vegetables, smen (aged butter) and a separate broth. Ask your riad to arrange a home couscous lunch.

Mechoui from the Medina

Fes's mechoui (slow-roasted lamb) sellers operate from unmarked doorways in the souks — ask locals to point you to the nearest one. Portions are sold by weight; 100g is plenty for a sandwich in a warm khobz roll. Under 30 MAD.

Atay bil Naânaâ

Fes's mint tea is a science — the quantity of tea, the steeping time, the pouring height. Order at Café Clock in the medina or any traditional hanout (corner shop) for the authentic experience. Never rush the ritual.

Rfissa

Fes's most celebrated celebratory dish — slow-cooked chicken with lentils, fenugreek and msemen flatbread, drenched in a rich ras el hanout broth. Traditionally served to new mothers. Ask your riad to arrange a home-cooked version — it's rarely on restaurant menus.

Where to Eat

Restaurant Nur (Derb Slane) — upscale Fassi cuisine; Café Clock — creative camel burgers and traditional; Addar — terrace views over Fes el-Bali; medina street food at Rcif market (20–40 MAD for a full meal).

Itinerary

3 Days in Fès

1 Day 1 — The Ancient Medina

  1. Morning: Enter Fès el-Bali through Bab Bou Jeloud (the Blue Gate) — hire a licensed guide for the first morning or you will get lost
  2. Mid-morning: Medersa Bou Inania and Al-Attarine — two of Morocco's most ornate Islamic schools; the tiled courtyards are breathtaking
  3. Lunch: Café Clock — a Fès institution; try the camel burger or the tagine in the riad courtyard near the tanneries
  4. Afternoon: Chouara Tanneries viewpoint — the leather dyeing pits are best viewed from the surrounding terrace shops (they give you mint for the smell); go mid-afternoon for full colour
  5. Sunset: Climb to the Borj Nord fortress ramparts for the classic panorama of Fès el-Bali spreading across the valley
  6. Dinner: Riad Fès restaurant or Dar Hatim — slow-cooked bastilla, lamb mechoui, Fassi pastries

2 Day 2 — Fès el-Jdid & the Mellah

  1. Morning: Fès el-Jdid — the 'new Fès' (founded 1276); visit the Royal Palace gates (Dar el-Makhzen) and the ornate Mellah (Jewish Quarter)
  2. Mid-morning: Mellah market and the Ibn Danan Synagogue — one of the best-preserved synagogues in Morocco
  3. Lunch: Rue des Mérinides — a string of local restaurants; ask for pastilla au pigeon, the classic Fassi dish invented in this city
  4. Afternoon: University of Al-Qarawiyyine — founded 859 AD, the world's oldest continuously operating university; the courtyard is accessible to visitors
  5. Late afternoon: Souk shopping — Fès has the finest ceramics and fassi embroidery in Morocco; Ain Allou pottery quarter for blue-and-white
  6. Evening: Gnawa music session in a medina riad — ask at your accommodation

3 Day 3 — Meknès Day Trip or Deeper Fès

  1. Option A — Meknès Day Trip: Grand taxi to Meknès (1h, ~30 MAD) — visit the Mausoleum of Moulay Ismail, the Bab Mansour gate and the granaries; lunch in the Meknès medina
  2. Option B — Deeper Fès: Explore Andalusian quarter (Fès el-Andalous) across the river — quieter, fewer tourists, fascinating Andalusian architecture
  3. Afternoon: Volubilis Roman ruins (45 min from Meknès) if on the day trip route — mosaics, triumphal arch, sweeping views
  4. Evening: Return to Fès; final dinner at a rooftop restaurant with medina views — Numero 7 or Dar Roumana
  5. Departure tip: Morning CTM bus to Marrakech (8h), Casablanca (4h) or Chefchaouen (3h)
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Keep Exploring

Also Visit

Chefchaouen 3 hrs west — the Blue City of the Rif
Rabat 3 hrs — Morocco's serene royal capital
Marrakech 8 hrs south — the Red City classic

Ready to explore Fes?

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FAQ

Fes — Frequently Asked Questions

How many days should I spend in Fes?
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2 to 3 days is the sweet spot for Fes. Day 1 covers Fes el-Bali — the Chouara tanneries, Al-Attarine Madrasa and the souks. Day 2 adds Bou Inania Madrasa, Borj Nord Museum and the Jewish quarter of Fes el-Jdid. A third day works well for a day trip to the Roman ruins at Volubilis and the holy city of Moulay Idriss.

Is it safe to explore the Fes medina alone?
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Yes — the Fes medina is generally safe for solo travellers, including women. The main challenge is navigation: the medina has over 9,000 alleys and it is very easy to get lost. Persistent touts near the tanneries are common. Stay confident, use offline maps, and consider a licensed guide for your first half-day.

What is Fes most famous for?
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Fes is most famous for its medina (Fes el-Bali), a UNESCO World Heritage Site and the world's largest car-free urban zone; the Chouara tanneries, where leather has been dyed in stone vats since the 11th century; and Al-Qarawiyyin University, founded in 859 AD and recognised as the oldest continuously operating university in the world.